JohnnyWhy Collar Types Matter in Bespoke Suit Fitting
Collar types might seem like a small detail—but in the world of bespoke suits, they’re everything. The collar shapes the visual narrative of your suit, frames your face, and can make or break the elegance of your overall look.
Understanding the Role of Collars in Suit Aesthetics
Think of the collar as the punctuation mark at the end of a sentence. It’s where the suit comes together, both literally and stylistically. The way it wraps around your neck, aligns with lapels, and complements your features defines your presence in the room.
What Is a Bespoke Suit Fitting?
If you’re new to the game, let’s break it down. A bespoke suit fitting is a custom tailoring process designed to fit your exact body shape, posture, and style preferences. You’re not buying off the rack—you’re getting a suit made for you, by hand, from scratch.
The Customization Process
From fabric selection to style customization, everything is tailored to your taste. And yes, that includes collar types.
Importance of Collar Choice
The collar influences not only your aesthetic but your comfort too. A stiff collar on a summer day? No thanks. Picking the right type for the occasion, climate, and body type is key. (More on that later.)
Collar Type 1: Classic Notch Collar
Characteristics of the Notch Collar
Let’s start with the crowd favorite: the notch collar. You’ll find this style on most business suits. Why? Because it’s timeless. The notch is where the collar meets the lapel at a distinct angle—clean, classy, and highly versatile.
Best Occasions for the Notch Collar
Weddings? Check. Board meetings? Absolutely. Casual Fridays? It still works. Its adaptability makes it the go-to for those who want a classic look without being overdressed.
Pairing with Accessories
Pair it with subtle grooming accessories and modest jewelry like cufflinks or tie clips. For hair, go for a neat cut—think side-part or faded pompadour. Explore more on haircut styling.
Collar Type 2: Peak Lapel Collar
Defining Features of the Peak Lapel
The peak lapel means business—and style. Its upward-pointing lapels add height and create a commanding presence. It’s not subtle, and that’s exactly why people love it.
When to Wear a Peak Lapel
This one’s for formal occasions. Think gala nights, exclusive events, or when you want to be the best-dressed man in the room.
Styling Tips
Go bold with a crisp white shirt, shiny black shoes, and a slick tie. A strong shoulder line enhances the collar’s impact, making it perfect for men with narrower frames. Bonus tip: Check out tips for body measurements to get that ideal fit.
Collar Type 3: Shawl Collar
The Elegant Curve of the Shawl
Smooth and rounded, the shawl collar flows without a break. No angles here—just pure elegance. It’s the tuxedo of collar styles.
Ideal Situations for a Shawl Collar
Dinner parties, weddings, and black-tie affairs are perfect for shawl collars. They give off an aura of luxury and calm sophistication.
Seasonal Advice for Shawl Collars
They pair beautifully with winter fabrics like velvet and wool. Want to wear it year-round? Stick with lighter materials. Head over to seasonal fabrics and heavy fabrics for deeper insights.
Collar Type 4: Mandarin Collar
The Modern Minimalist Look
The Mandarin collar is a stand-up, collarless design that’s sleek and contemporary. No flaps, no fuss—just an elegant upright band that hugs your neck.
How to Style a Mandarin Collar Suit
This one’s great for cultural events or modern wedding ceremonies. Pair it with minimalist loafers and avoid over-accessorizing. Less is more here.
Best Body Types for Mandarin Collars
If you have a long neck or angular jawline, the Mandarin collar will elevate your features like a spotlight. For shorter necks, consider a lower stand to keep it comfortable.
Choosing the Right Collar for Your Body
Face Shapes and Collar Pairings
- Oval face? Lucky you—you can rock any collar.
- Round face? Try peak lapels for added length.
- Square face? Go for a notch or shawl to soften edges.
Shoulder Width Considerations
Broad shoulders work well with notch or peak collars, while narrower frames benefit from the structure of a peak lapel.
Seasonal Suiting and Collar Selection
Collars for Summer vs Winter
In hot weather, choose a lightweight, breathable fabric with a notch or Mandarin collar. In winter, go for wool suits with shawl or peak collars for warmth and style.
Explore more seasonal options here and here.
Breathable Fabrics and Collar Comfort
The right collar also depends on your suit’s breathability. A tight collar on a summer day can ruin your look and your mood. For all-day comfort, explore our guide to breathable suits.
Tailoring Timelines: Planning for the Perfect Collar
Fitting Sessions and Adjustments
It’s not a one-and-done deal. Proper tailoring timelines involve multiple fittings. Adjustments to collar height, width, and pitch can be made based on how the suit sits on your shoulders and chest.
Measurement Tools for Collar Perfection
Precision is king. Using proper measuring tools ensures collar symmetry and balance. Learn more at our suit measurements guide.
Grooming Accessories to Match Your Collar Type
Jewelry and Haircuts to Complement the Look
Some collars call for more. A peak lapel with bold cufflinks. A Mandarin collar with a sleek chain. A shawl collar with brushed-back hair. Your grooming choices enhance the overall vibe.
Grooming Essentials
Check out our curated grooming accessories section to match each collar with precision. Want DIY grooming tips? Explore the DIY grooming tag.
Final Thoughts: Collar Types Define Elegance
If you think collars are just “extra fabric,” think again. They frame your identity, reflect your personal taste, and speak volumes before you say a word. A great bespoke collar is not just measured in inches—it’s measured in impact.
Conclusion
In the world of bespoke suit fitting, collar types are more than style—they’re statements. Whether you’re drawn to the timeless notch, the bold peak, the suave shawl, or the modern Mandarin, understanding your options gives you power. The right collar can enhance your facial features, elevate your elegance, and make you feel damn good every time you suit up.
So next time you’re in for a fitting, don’t just shrug when asked about the collar. Now, you know exactly what to say.
Ready to explore your style? Check out more tips and options at Johnny Bespoke.
FAQs
1. What’s the most versatile collar type in bespoke suit fitting?
The notch collar is the most versatile—it fits nearly all face shapes, occasions, and styles.
2. Can I change the collar style after the initial fitting?
Yes, if you’re early in the tailoring stages, most tailors can accommodate this.
3. Which collar works best for summer suits?
Mandarin collars in lightweight, breathable fabrics are ideal for warm weather. Learn more here.
4. Are shawl collars too formal for daytime events?
Not at all! Pair them with casual fabrics and simple accessories, and you’re good to go.
5. How do I know which collar suits my face shape?
Refer to the “Face Shapes and Collar Pairings” section above, or visit our style guide.
6. Can I request multiple collar styles in one bespoke suit wardrobe?
Absolutely. Create different suits with different collars depending on the event or season.
7. What grooming essentials complement bespoke collars?
Check out our grooming accessories page and tag for curated suggestions.