JohnnyIntroduction to Lapels in Bespoke Suits
When it comes to designing your bespoke suit, every detail counts. One of the most overlooked — yet visually crucial — parts is the lapel. Think of the lapel as the face of your suit jacket. It frames your shirt, tie, and shoulders and speaks volumes about your style. Whether you’re going for classic elegance or modern flair, your lapel choice can make or break your suit’s personality.
Why Lapels Matter in a Bespoke Suit Fitting
Why care about lapels during a bespoke suit fitting? Simple — because lapels impact how structured, sharp, and stylish your suit looks. Lapels help define your torso, accentuate your chest and shoulders, and even influence how formal or casual the outfit feels.
If you’re unsure where to start, check out the tailoring timeline or review the basics of suit measurements so you’re not walking blind into your first fitting.
Let’s explore the 6 lapel styles that can define your entire look.
1. Notch Lapel
Characteristics of a Notch Lapel
The notch lapel is the most common lapel style — and for good reason. It features a small “notch” where the lapel meets the collar, forming a 75–90° angle. It’s versatile, timeless, and suitable for nearly all body types.
When to Wear a Notch Lapel
Notch lapels are ideal for:
- Business settings
- Job interviews
- Semi-formal events
It’s the Swiss army knife of lapels. You’ll often see it on single-breasted jackets and lighter suits.
Ideal Fabrics and Customization Tips
Pair notch lapels with breathable materials during summer and switch to heavier fabrics in winter. Want to add flair? Customize your collar type or pick contrast stitching.
2. Peak Lapel
Defining the Peak Lapel
The peak lapel has edges that point upward toward the shoulders — like little wings. It’s bolder, sharper, and makes a strong impression.
Formality and Elegance
This lapel is synonymous with elegance and events like:
- Weddings
- Galas
- Red-carpet appearances
Peak lapels scream power. If you’re all about elegance, this one’s for you.
Who Should Wear Peak Lapels?
Broad shoulders? Narrow chest? Short torso? The peak lapel fixes it all. It elongates your frame and brings attention upward — a secret weapon for shorter guys.
3. Shawl Lapel
The Smooth Curve: Classic Shawl Design
Unlike the angular lines of notch or peak lapels, the shawl lapel features a smooth, continuous curve. There’s no notch, no peak — just pure sophistication.
Lapel for Formal and Black-Tie Occasions
Shawl lapels are the go-to for:
- Tuxedos
- Velvet dinner jackets
- Black-tie weddings
They’re traditional and classy, yet utterly timeless.
Styling Ideas for Shawl Lapels
Add a grooming accessory like a velvet bow tie, pocket square, or even subtle jewelry. And don’t forget proper haircut styling for a polished finish.
4. Slim Lapel
Minimalist Appeal for a Modern Touch
A slim lapel is narrow and clean-cut, often less than 2.75 inches wide. It adds a modern, sleek touch to any suit — perfect for lean builds and minimalistic fashion.
Suiting Trends and Body Types
Slim lapels are trending in urban fashion and often seen in contemporary suits. They look best on:
- Skinny or athletic builds
- Slim-fit suits
- Shorter individuals
Best Situations for Slim Lapels
Slim lapels work great for cocktail parties, evening networking events, or modern weddings. Add layers using style customization to create a balanced silhouette.
5. Wide Lapel
Retro Charm with a Bold Statement
The wide lapel is a throwback to the golden era of the ‘70s. These lapels are typically 3.5 inches wide or more, making a bold, vintage-inspired statement.
When to Opt for Wide Lapels
Great for men with broader chests or strong builds, wide lapels create a balanced visual. They’re perfect for:
- Retro themes
- Power dressing
- Winter suits with heavy fabrics
Pairing with Fabric and Collar Types
Combine wide lapels with bolder fabric selections and thicker collar types for an unmistakable presence.
6. Contrast Lapel
A Bold Move for Modern Customization
Want to stand out? Go for a contrast lapel — where the lapel fabric or color differs from the jacket body. Think black satin lapel on a white tux. It’s daring, modern, and full of personality.
How to Color Match and Stand Out
Use complementary tones — navy with grey, black with emerald green, etc. Add accents through pockets, cuffs, or buttons. It’s next-level customization.
Lapel Customization and Event Wear
This style is ideal for creative professionals, modern weddings, or upscale parties. Use tools from the DIY guide or process breakdowns to co-create with your tailor.
Choosing the Right Lapel for Your Body Type
Use your body measurements to guide lapel width:
- Broad chest = wide or peak lapels
- Narrow frame = slim or notch lapels
- Round face = angular lapels for balance
- Long face = curved shawl lapel
Choosing wrong? It’ll show.
Matching Lapels with Season and Fabric
In warmer months, stick to breathable summer fabrics and narrower lapels. For winter, go wide and bold with thicker materials.
Explore the fabric selection page for the right pairing with each lapel.
Customization Options Beyond Lapels
Lapel isn’t everything. Think:
- Buttonhole accents
- Pocket styling
- Jewelry and accessories
- Interior lining designs
Make it yours with style customization options.
How Lapels Fit into the Full Tailoring Process
Lapels are chosen early, but adjusted late. Refer to the tailoring stages and get involved in the process with your tailor from start to finish.
Final Lapel Fitting Tips Before the Tailor Begins
- Use proper measuring tools
- Take reference photos
- Match lapels with shirts and ties
- Try mock fittings
- Align lapel width with shoulder pads
Conclusion
Lapel choice isn’t just about aesthetics — it’s about identity. Whether you’re the classic type who loves a notch lapel or someone bold enough for contrast lapels, your selection will elevate the final look of your bespoke suit fitting. Consult your tailor, trust your body type, play with fabric and season, and never underestimate the power of a well-crafted lapel.
For more expert guidance, don’t forget to visit JohnnyBespoke.com and dive deep into topics like grooming accessories, collar types, or breathable fabrics.
FAQs
1. Which lapel style is best for everyday wear?
The notch lapel is the most versatile and best for daily wear — from office suits to casual events.
2. Can I mix lapel styles with different suit types?
Yes, with the right balance. For example, a peak lapel works well even on a two-button suit if styled properly.
3. How do I know if a lapel suits my body type?
Refer to your body measurements and ask your tailor to mock it up during fittings.
4. Are contrast lapels too flashy?
Not if paired tastefully. Keep other elements minimal to let the lapel shine.
5. Should I match my lapel with my tie width?
Yes, as a general rule. Wider lapels go well with wider ties, and slim lapels suit skinny ties.
6. Is a shawl lapel only for tuxedos?
While traditionally used in formalwear, modern designs allow shawl lapels in velvet or linen suits for events.
7. How many lapel styles can I try before finalizing my suit?
As many as your tailor allows. Use fitting stages to experiment. Explore the expectations guide for more.